Extra Bites: Ilhan Abdi

The Ramadan Kitchen

This week on Cooking the Books, we’re in the Ramadan kitchen of London based Somali-Egyptian food writer, Ilhan Abdi.

Here she shares a recipe from her book, and a recitation of Surah Maryam (Be Heaven), recited by Omar Hisham Al Arabi.

This recitation is deeply personal to me. I listened to it every single day while I was pregnant four years ago, and then asked the surgeon performing my C-section to play it on the speakers in theatre. There was something so comforting about hearing it in that moment and knowing it was one of the first sounds my baby heard. The recitation itself is incredibly soothing, but it is the meaning of Surah Maryam, the story of Maryam (Mary) and the strength and miracle of birth, that made it feel even more significant. I will always connect it to the day I became a mother, and my daughter and I still listen to it often.

Shurbad

Lamb, Oat and Barley Soup

Shurbad exists across many cultures, especially in East Africa, the Middle East and North Africa. The word comes from the Arabic root shariba, meaning ‘to drink’, and it refers to something light and warming, often served at the start of a meal. The ingredients and methods vary across regions, but the feeling is the same. It’s a dish that many, myself included, make only during Ramadan – something that feels tied to the rhythm of the month. This version is gently spiced and comforting. You can use chicken if you prefer, and it freezes well, so you can make it weeks in advance.

500 g/1 lb 2 oz lamb shoulder on the bone, meat diced

2 vegetable stock pots

400-g/14-oz can finely chopped tomatoes

180 g/6 oz/1 cup pearl barley

4 tbsp rolled oats

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp ground coriander

½ tsp curry powder

5 tbsp olive or sunflower oil

½ large brown onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves

small bunch fresh coriander (cilantro)

lemon juice or apple cider vinegar, to serve (optional)

In a large deep pot, combine the lamb and stock pots with 2.5 litres/10 cups of water. Place the pot over medium–high heat and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium–low and simmer uncovered for about 1 hour 30 minutes, or until the meat is tender.

Remove the meat from the pot and shred it into small pieces, discarding the bones. Return the shredded meat to the pot.

Add the chopped tomatoes and barley to the pot, stirring to combine. Allow the mixture to cook, uncovered, for 45 minutes over medium–low heat, stirring occasionally. Then, add the oats along with the cumin, coriander and curry powder, stirring to mix well. Cook for 20 minutes, then remove from the heat.

In a separate saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until browned.

Crush the garlic and fresh coriander together using a pestle and mortar and add to the oil and onion. Mix well and cook for another minute.

Carefully pour the hot oil mixture into the pot of soup, stirring immediately to combine. Simmer for a further 10 minutes.

Best served hot with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice or a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar on each portion.

Tip: This soup can be stored in the freezer for up to 3 months. To serve, just defrost, warm through and finish with a quick herb oil. Don’t forget the vinegar or a squeeze of lemon to bring it all together.

The Ramadan Kitchen: Nourishing Recipes from East to Feast by Ilhan Mohamed Abdi (Pavilion Books). Image by Haarala Hamilton.